Maison Myrbor

1926, silk and metal, Myrbor

Courtesy of my wonderful sister, I came across a beautiful garment of perfect execution this morning. The piece looked like something our glamorous red-headed Nan would have worn. Curious to find out more, I looked into the fashion house Myrbor.

Maison Myrbor opened in Paris in 1922 and only lasted until 1936, but what a wonderfully creative few years they were. Founded by collector and patron Marie Cuttoli, it brought fine art, fashion and interiors together in a way that still feels rather modern.

1925–29, silk and metal, Sarah Lipska

1925–29, silk and metal bodice, Sarah Lipska, Myrbor

1924–25, Futurist appliquéd cocktail dress, Natalia Goncharova

Artists including Sarah Lipska and Natalia Goncharova worked with the house, both having also designed for the Ballets Russes. Their embroideries and appliqués use abstract, Cubist-inspired motifs, with visible whip stitching that becomes part of the design. I love that – the making of the garment is right there to see.

1920–29, silk, wood and metal, Sarah Lipska

Cuttoli's interests stretched far beyond couture. She also established a workshop in Sétif, Algeria, where local women produced tapestries and carpets, and she later commissioned modern artists for woven work. Picasso, Braque, Léger and Miró were among the artists she worked with. It is a fascinating crossing-over of art and design.

Adrienne Fidelin, Marie Cuttoli, Paul Cuttoli, Picasso, Dora Maar and Man Ray

1920–29, silk, Sarah Lipska textile for Myrbor

1923, silk and metal, Sarah Lipska at Myrbor

Sarah Lipska's work in particular has such a recognisable feel: appliqué, strong shapes and glorious colour. The garments remain feminine, but there is nothing timid about them. They feel powerful, graphic and surprisingly fresh a century later.

House of Myrbor label

Myrbor garments are rare, which perhaps makes these surviving examples feel even more special. A short-lived fashion house, but quite a legacy.

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